The Love Story That Has No Ending

Guerlain's Shalimar

For the creation of Shalimar, Jacques Guerlain was inspired by a love story told to him by a Maharajah visiting Paris:

Over 300 years ago, Shah Jahan succeeded to the throne of his father Jahangir, and became the third Mogul Emperor of India. Jahan had many wives, but he adored only one.


Her name was Mumtaz Mahal.

Some say he loved her unto madness, that she was not his wife but his fever. Victories, empires and riches were as dust compared to her... in his eyes, she alone was the balm that made life bearable.

When she died, Jahan's hair turned white. He would burst into tears at the mention of her name. In her memory he built on of the world's greatest wonders—the Taj Mahal at Agra.

But the Taj Mahal was only an empty monument. While Mumtaz was alive Jahan created a series of gardens for her at Lahore, gardens the like of which had never been seen before, and he called the gardens Shalimar. In Sanskrit, the word means, "abode of love."



From every corner of the earth the most fragrant and delicate blossoms were bought, deep pools were built and crystal fountains with terraces paved in marble. The rarest birds were summoned to sing here and lanterns hung to rival the stars. In the gardens of Shalimar the lovers were truly happy and Mumtaz bore fourteen children to her beloved Jahan.

Did you know?
Completed in 1921, Jacques Guerlain did not launch the fragrance until the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts in Paris (Art Deco) in 1925. The story goes that the creation of Shalimar was sort of an accident. Guerlain received a sample of synthetic vanillin and poured it into a bottle of Jicky, the famous fragrance created by his uncle, Aimé. The result was an early version of Shalimar.

The House of Guerlain has spanned 177 years and is inseparable from the evolution of the perfume industry. The Shalimar bottle was designed by Raymond Guerlain and Baccarat in 1921, and it remains the most successful of all the Guerlain perfumes.

Playlist of the Week (09.29.05)

1. Streets of Love, The Rolling Stones
2. Feeling Good, Nina Simone
3. Lucy Doesn't Love You, Ivy
4. Cool, Gwen Stefani
5. Broken Hearted Melody, Sarah Vaughn
6. She Saw Me Coming, The Rolling Stones
7. Careful Where You Stand (acoustic), Coldplay
8. Breathe Me, Sia
9. The Arrival, Stephen Trask
10. I Turn My Camera On, Spoon

Did you know?
Franz Ferdinand was an Austrian archduke whose 1914 assassination signaled the beginning of World War I. The band's sophomore release, "You Could Have It So Much Better," is in stores Tuesday, 10.04.05.

Playing Small

Our deepest fear is not that we are inadequate.
Our deepest fear is that we are powerful beyond measure.
It is our light, not our darkness, that most frightens us.
We ask ourselves, who am I to be brilliant, gorgeous, talented
and fabulous?
Actually, who are you not to be?
You are a child of God.
Your playing small doesn't serve the world.
There's nothing enlightened about shrinking so that other people
won't feel insecure around you.
We were born to make manifest the glory of God that is within us.
Its not just in some of us; its in everyone.
And as we let our light shine,
we unconsciously give other people permission to do the same.
As we are liberated from our own fear, our presence automatically
liberates others.

1994 Inaugural Speech
Nelson Mandela

Hesse: The Meyer Madonna

Next month, The Portland Art Museum is the exclusive venue for the first public presentation of the artistic wealth of the house of Hesse.
The exhibit will include The Holbein Madonna, painted for the burgomeister of Basel Meyer von Hasen, in 1526. It will leave
Germany for the first time in more than 150 years.

Holbein's Madonna, also referred to as the Meyer Madonna, is considered to be one of the great masterpieces of European Art. I
decided to do a little discovery work to learn more about this painting before it arrives in town next month.

The Artist:
Flemish painter, Hans Holbein the Younger (c. 1497-1543).
Holbein's specialty was portraiture. His talents also included a strong sense of composition, subtle linear patterning, and a marvelous sensitivity to color.

Holbein was both in education and career, a cosmopolitan. At the early age of 16, after training by his father, he went traveling with his brother Ambrosius. He is first mentioned in 1515 in Basel, where he entered the workshop of Hans Herbster. His first public commissions were carried out in Lucerne in 1517. In 1519, Holbein became a member of the painters guild in Basel, and in 1520 received a citizenship of Basel. His artistic life may be divided into 4 periods. He worked in Basel, Lucerne, and Zurich from 1515 to 1526. From 1526 to 1528 he was in London, but returned to Basel for the next four years. From 1532 he was again in London and died there of the plague in 1543.

His observation of detail, psychological penetration of his sitters and superb handling of color made him the greatest portrait painter of German art.

The Period:
Northern artists of the 16th Century were deeply influenced by the Italian Renaissance, in particular, the Venetians who painted rich colors in oil. Holbein's composition connects to the High Renaissance by the use of pyramidal composition, which adds stability and monumentality to the piece. The Protestant Reformation was also underway, so it was uncommon for Holbein to receive a commission that dealt with religious subject matter in a time when 'everyday life' scenes had begun to emerge. Didactic art, rich with detail and symbolism were favored by the middle class merchants who were buying private commissions. Guttenberg's Printing Press was also invented, altering the entire Reformation by allowing mass production of the Bible, further reinforcing Protestants core belief that they did not need a rich pope and priests to interpret it for them.

The Donor:
Jacob Meyer, businessman and Burgomaster of Basel, he was elected to the office on June 24, 1516. In 1521, he was impeached for a larger bribe from the French than was permitted, imprisoned when he protested at this treatment and barred from office thereafter. He remained a Catholic after the city’s secession to the reformed religion and led the Catholic party in the city. Dorothea Kannengiesser was the second wife of Jacob Meyer.

The Meyer or Darmstadt Madonna is the last, most famous and most effective of Holbein’s great religious works. This is a Schulzmantelbild (a Virgin of Pity painting), in which the donor, Jacob Meyer, appeals to divine protection for himself and his family. On the right are his wives – enwrapped profile of his first, Magdalena Baer (who died in 1511) and Dorothea Kannengiesser. Before them kneels Anna, the only surviving child. A friend of Holbein’s, one Magdalena Offenburg, posed for the Madonna. She also posed for the Lais. The commission for the painting was the result of the death of  Meyer’s two sons during Holbein’s first English absence, and Meyer decided to include all members of his family, living and dead.

Symbolism:
The Virgin by her intercession can win the mercy of the Father. What such a figure represents is benign, protecting power of destiny. Holbein depicts the Madonna as a cloaked figure enthroned by the architectural shell, which symbolizes the womb, divine space, and femininty. The golden crown she wears is a symbol of sovereignty. The Child's twisting body emphasizes the weight the Madonna's arms must carry.

In the News:
"The Art Newspaper reported that Prince Donatus has decided to put the Holbein Madonna up for sale in order to pay a DM25 million inheritance tax after the death of the last of the southern branch of the family, Margaret von Hesse, and the consequent merger of all of the family holdings with the northern Cassel branch of the family.

The paper estimated that on the open market it could be worth $100 million, although according to law it will have to stay within Germany."
-David Patrick Columbia's New York Social Diary

Resources: Portland Art Museum, Gardner's Art Through the Ages, Web Gallery of Art.

Marionberry Mojito's

Lightly muddle a handful of fresh or frozen marionberries with 2 tsp. organic sugar and crushed mint; add 2-3 oz Crater Lake Vodka; top with soda water and garnish with a sprig of mint.

Portland Monthly, Oct. 2005

Fall Fragrance Trends

As the sizzle of summer fades away, we change from a blosomy sun dress to a cozy sweater and wrap around scarf. The favored iced latté is soon replaced with a hot Chai tea latté, and socks get pulled out from the back of the drawer.

The shifting of the season's brings a change to all of our senses, including smell. Pushed aside are the cool citrus and melon potions;
the lush tropical florals are simply to cloying for this time of year.

Current trends report scents with longer lasting accords (oil compositions) are being sought out by market consumers. Vanilla, amber, and musk top the list of most desired notes in fall's modern orientals.

Fragrance Warming:
Narciso Rogriguez For Her, Crystal Noir by Versace, Allure Sensuelle by Chanel, Viktor & Rolf's Flowerbomb, and Obsession Night by Calvin Klein.

Another trend already underway in advertising, entertainment, fashion, and fragrances is spirituality. Angelic models will be seen in fashion magazines photographed in ethereal light, Tom Hank's stars in the controversial Da Vinci Code and Daniel Radcliff returns in one of the most anticipated holiday blockbusters. Fragrance, too, has converted.
A new congregation of beauty products have arrived, 'in talisman bottles, promising mystical and protective virtues.' *

On the Spiritual Side:
Alien by Thierry Mugler (Shamanistic theme), Nina Ricci's L'air de Temp, Euphoria by Calvin Klein, Blue Notte Femme by Bvlgari, and Mandragore by Annick Goutal.

Last, on the trend horizon is luxury. There is a resurgence of the 80's ostentatious brands that are being reintroduced with ferver (Obsession Night, Pure Poison, Gucci's 'Envy Me', Trésor). The new scents, however, are not as powerful as their predecessors and are definitely worth checking out. You will discover the materialism is more apparent in bottling and package design.

Tied in with luxe is, of course, celebrity. "We are now in the midst of a celebrity scent explosion," reports Tara Kraft, beauty director, STAR magazine. In the 80's, it was Elizabeth Taylor's Passion that paved the way in diamonds and gold. In 2005, we will be introduced to new fragrances from Jennifer Lopez, Britney Spears, Beyoncé, Paris Hilton, Shania Twain, Celine Dion, Antonio Banderas, Sarah Jessica Parker, and several others.

Megastars can also be seen in the fall campaigns of major fashion and cosmetic houses: Gwyneth Paltrow/Esteé Lauder, Drew Barrymore/Lancôme, Charlize Theron/Christian Dior, and Nicole Kidman continues her partnership with Chanel.

Glam it Up:
Lovely By Sarah Jessica Parker, Donna Karan Cashmere Mist (new) Eau de Parfum, Michael Kors White Luxe Bath Oil, Dior Addict 2, Bvlgari Omnia Crystalline, and J.Lo's Live.

Resources: CFSS Newsletter, The Fragrance Foundation, and Osmoz*

Backyard Sunset

Joan C. Gratz: Liquid Van Gogh

Watching TV a few years back, I saw a commercial for Wishbone salad dressing and was completely awe-struck. "How'd they do that?" I wondered. It was liquid Van Gogh, swirling brushstrokes that were passionate and vibrant. The curling rhythms were brought to life by local artist, Joan C. Gratz.

Joan pioneered the animation technique now known as "claypainting." Its a 2-dimensional method of animation where bits of clay are used in place of oil paints. Joan daubs and slathers the bits of clay about the canvas with her fingertips. The stills are then melded together to develop a seamless array of images.

The final stunning sequence:
Watch a clip of Joan's Academy Award winning animated short film Mona Lisa Descending a Staircase, courtesy of Pyramid Media.

Or view her demo reel, courtesy of Laika Entertainment , formerly Will Vinton Studios.

Did you know?
You may also recall Joan's work from Peter Gabriel's 1992 music video, "Digging in the Dirt."

Frances's Kitchen

Did you know?
Carl & Frances Bryan were married at the church chapel August 21, 1938, at 8:00 a.m . Their guests enjoyed a wedding breakfast, and attended services and Sunday School afterword.

Spanish Rice
Saute until crisp: 3 slices bacon
Remove the bacon.
Stir and cook in the drippings until browned:
1/2 c. white rice (Uncle Ben's)
Add and cook until golden:
1/2 c. thinly sliced (or chopped) onions
Add the bacon and:
1 1/4 c. canned tomatoes
1/2 tsp. salt
1 tsp. paprika
1 seeded and minced green pepper
1 pressed clove garlic

Steam the rice in skillet with tight fitting lid, or in double boiler about 1 hour over low heat. Stir it frequently. Add water or stock if the rice becomes too dry. The recipe is very flexible.

*Note: Wayne's recipe substituted tomato sauce instead of canned tomatoes.


All-American Apple Pie
Pastry for Double-Crust Pie (see below)

6 cups thinly sliced cooking apples (2 lbs.)
1 T. lemon juice (optional)
1 c. sugar
2 T. all-purpose flour
1/2 to 1 tsp. ground cinnamon
Dash ground nutmeg
1 T. butter or margarine
Sugar (optional)

Prepare + roll out pastry. Line a 9 inch pie plate with half of the pastry. Trim pastry to edge of pie plate.
1.) If apples lack tartness, sprinkle with the 1 Tbsp. lemon juice.
2.) In mixing bowl combine sugar, flour, cinnamon and nutmeg. (for a very juicy pie omit flour)
3.) Add sugar mixture to the apples; toss to mix
4.) Fill pastry-lined pie plate with apple mixture; dot with butter or margarine. Cut slits in top crust for escape of steam; place pastry atop filling. Seal and flute edge.
5.) Sprinkle some sugar atop if desired. To prevent overbrowning, cover edge of pie with foil. Bake in 375° oven for 25 minutes. Remove foil, bake 20 to 25 minutes more till crust is golden. Cool pie on rack, Serve with ice cream if desired.


Pastry for Double-Crust Pie
2 c. all-purpose flour
1 tsp. salt
2/3 cup shortening or lard (she suggests Crisco)
6 to 7 T. cold water

In medium mixing bowl stir together flour and salt. Using a pastry blender (or fork) cut in shortening till the pieces are the size of small peas. Sprinkle 1 Tbsp. water over part of mixture, gently toss with a fork. Push to side of bowl. Repeat till all is moistened. Form dough into 2 balls.

1.) On lightly floured surface, flatten one ball of dough with hands. Roll dough from center to edge, forming a circle about 12 inches in diameter. Ease pastry into pie plate being careful to avoid stretching pastry. Trim pastry even with rim on plate.
2.) For top crust roll out second ball of dough. Cut slits for escape for steam.
3.) Place desired filling in pie shell. Top with pastry for top crust. Trim top crust


Cranberry Meat Balls
2 lbs. lean hamburger
1 c. corn flake crumbs
1/3 c. dried parsley
2 eggs
2 T. soy sauce
1/4 tsp. pepper
1/2 tsp. garlic powder
1/2 c. catsup
2 T. minced dried oinion.

Mix together and form into 60 small balls. Put single layer in shallow pan and cover with sauce (below).

Cranberry Sauce
1 can jellied cranberries
12 oz. bottle chili sauce
2 T. brown sugar
1 T. lemon juice

Cover meatballs and bake at 350° for 30 minutes. Can be made ahead and reheated.

Rice Dish
(serve with meatballs if desired)
1 medium onion auted in 1/2 c. margarine
1 can mushroom soup
1 can consumé soup
1 can mushrooms or saute some fresh mushrooms
1 cup raw instant rice

Saute onion, add soups and mushrooms. Pour rice in frying pan last. Put all in casserole and bake 1 1/2 hours at 325°


Potluck Potato Salad
(serves 12 to 15)
3 T. vinegar
2 tsp. mustard seed
1 1/2 tsp. celery seed
9 medium potatoes (3 lbs.)
1 c. chopped celery
1/2 c. thinly sliced green onion
3 hardboiled eggs, chopped
2 c. mayonnaise or salad dressing
1 tsp. salt
paprika

Combine vinegar, mustard seed and celery seed, let stand for several hours.In covered saucepan cook potatoes in boiling salted water for 25 to 30 minutes or till tender. Drain. Peel and cube potatoes. In large bowl sprinkle potatoes with a little salt. Add celelry, onion, and eggs, toss lightly. Combine mayonnaise, salt and vinegar mixture. Add to potato mixture, toss to mix vegetables. Chill. Sprinkle with paprika.

Ida's Kitchen

From the handwritten recipe box of Ida Marie Stefani,
in honor of a great cook.

Did you know?
The first day of married life, Ida cried because she couldn't fry an egg.

Biscotti
1 1/2 cups sugar
4 eggs
1/2 lb. butter
2 tsp. aniseseed extract
2 tsp. vanilla extract
2 tsp. almond extract
4 cups flour
1 1/2 tsp. baking soda
pinch of salt
1 cup walnuts.

Roll and bake at 350° for 20 minutes. Slice and toast.


Barbecued Spare Ribs
Cut into small pieces, 2 lbs. of ribs. Place them in a pan. Cover with waxed paper. Bake the ribs in a very hot oven, 500° for 15 minutes, then reduce heat to 350°

Sauté until brown 1/2 cups chopped onions in 1 T. fat.

Add and simmer for 20 minutes:
1/2 cup water
2 Tbsp. vinegar
1 Tbsp. Worcestershire Sauce
1/3 cup lemon juice
2 T. brown sugar
1 cup chili sauce
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. paprika

Remove the waxed paper and pour sauce over meat. Bake ribs for 1 hour more, baste frequently.


Chicken Piccata
6 chicken skinless breasts
Flour
1 c. butter
1/2 c. dry white wine
Juice of 2 lemons
Salt, Pepper
1/2 c. chopped parsley

Dredge chicken breasts in flour. Melt butter over low heat, add chicken and brown. Add wine,half the lemon juice and season to taste. Sprinkle parsley over chicken. Cover and simmer 5 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with remaining lemon juice. Place chicken on platter and pour pan juices over chicken.

More to come.