Friday, October 14, 2005

Reviews: Novoandina Cuisine at Andina

Portland's first Peruvian restaurant, Andina (in the Pearl District), serves up our first taste of novoandina cuisine—a blend of Peru's contemporary cooking and older, deep-rooted Inca themes, such as quinoa and purple potatoes, and let me say... it is GOOD!

When they say Andina wakes up a lot of things, they mean it. The food combines local peppers with Pacific seafood, all while incorporating the Chinese and Japanese influences from the Pacific Rim. The hand-crafted cocktails are a delight (we tried several and ending up passing them around the table).

My favorite:
Sacsayhuaman
Rocoto pepper infused vodka, passionfruit pureé, sugar-rimmed martini glass and cilantro. Served up. Amazing!

The envirionment is sophisticated and possesses a lively energy, featuring Peruvian art, textiles, photo's and live Brazilian or flamenco music.

Andina entreé's are dramatically presented (the chef is also and artist), and food is sculpted like a mountain range on a plate. Aji, or hot pepper, finds it way into most sauces and dishes, sometimes as a teaser and sometimes as the main event. There is over 300 varieties grown in Peru.

One of the best elements is the staff. Top notch service from the moment we stepped in the door, and our night concluded with the creator, Mama Doris, personally thanking our table and sharing with us a bit about Peru’s traditions and stories. A very nice touch, indeed. Don't hesitate to ask for recommendations, they were right on each time. Its no wonder The Oregonian selected Andina's as its 'Restaurant of the Year'. We'll be back.

Located @ 1314 NW Glisan, Portland. Oregon 97209.
p. 503.228.9539

Did you know?
A LITTLE HISTORY...
Traditional Peruvian cooking is a hybrid of Spanish and native Indian foodways. Many staples, such as potatoes, corn, peanuts, chiles, and fresh seafood, date back to the Incan empire, which flourished in the Andes for thousands of years. When Spanish conquistadors arrived in the 16th century, they brought European-style desserts and ingredients such as chicken, beef, and citrus fruits. Later, African, Italian, Chinese, and Japanese immigrants added to the mix, forming the spicy cuisine that is still cooked in many homes and restaurants today.
-Epicurious.com

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